Well, the season is almost over. I have learned a lot about myself this past year; being the new guy or FNG for those in the business is tough, I suppose I'd forgotten somehow - especially when the others have been at the same club for twenty years.
I still don't think I’m in on all the gossip. I don't know if I like my job. Some days are really rewarding, but I have trouble listening to my boss' yakking all day long. I swear he talks just so it isn't quiet… oh, and I don't trust him either. He actually tells me in not so many words to stop being so creative. "They won't buy your special anyway." he says. I suppose he’s somewhat correct. For one thing, the members treat my restaurant like we treat our kitchen at home: scrambled eggs, turkey sandwich on wheat; simple and easy things to prepare and eat. The annoying thing for is that I was hired to do some more imaginative plates – like Sea Bass over Grilled Tomatoes with Wilted Spinach and Brandy Mushrooms; Orange Supremes, Creamer Potatoes and a Balsamic Glaze (recipe below).
I do get some members who enjoy new dishes and over all I have received positive feedback. Another issue I have is my coworkers. They, the “cooks,” all have other jobs so they work 60-70 hours a week like I do but in two different kitchens which makes them lazy and uninspired to the point that to them, it’s “just a job.” I understand that they work a lot and get tired but I don't like that it affects the quality of the food we present to the members. I feel strongly about my food and believe that you should be happy in your work - unrealistic, I know. One more worry I have is that we are interviewing for a new executive chef at the club so will I have to cook for this person to keep my job? Nobody tells me what's going on but I also don't go out of my way to find out because I am too busy running a kitchen! I feel that even if I do my job really well it won't matter to the new chef. The chef could say, “Tough, I don't know you and I am bringing in my own people.” With no information and no incentives besides my personal love of cooking, why would I stay? I guess I go back to “If.” If i am asked back next season, do I want the position? Where else would I get a job? Would it be the same, just at a new club? Can I find a restaurant that is open year around? Should I try and open my own place? How? Where do I start? I know that being my own boss would make me happy. What I do know is that the season here in Rancho Mirage is almost over and I clearly have a lot of unanswered questions. My rant shouldn’t be misinterpreted; it isn't like I hate my job - it pays well, I have met some good people and I get to be creative for the most part. Maybe, I will keep my job and start a business. Only time will tell.
Cheers
Sea Bass Plate. (Serves two)
14 oz. Sea Bass ( 2, 7 0z. filets)
2 Ounces Brandy
2 tbs. Butter
2 handfuls of fresh, cleaned Spinach
8- 10 creamer potatoes (fingerlings will do nicely here as well, little baby potatoes okay)
1 Beefsteak or heirloom tomato depending upon season
6 oz. of medium white mushrooms (cremini's are okay too)
Balsamic reduction (you can get this in the store as well)
Fresh basil, thyme, parsley, rosemary (and any other fresh herbs you wish to add)
Salt
Pepper
One orange Supremed - If you can't do this, orange segments will work.
Let's start with the items that can be done ahead of time, the creamer potatoes and the brandy mushrooms. The potatoes just need to be boiled until just done. We should be able to insert a paring knife into the potato to the center without forcing it. The mushrooms are a little more work. First rinse the dirt off of them and let them dry for about fifteen minutes. In a bowl toss them with a one or two tbsp. of olive oil, salt, pepper and some fresh herbs. Heat a medium sauté pan over medium/high heat. Let the pan get pretty hot and add a touch of oil and the mushrooms, making sure not to crowd them (You may need to sauté the mushrooms in a couple of batches).
Sauté the mushrooms for two to three minutes then pull the pan away from the burner and add the brandy. It is going to sizzle and steam for a minute, that’s a good thing. Let the brandy reduce a little before returning it to the flame. We still might get a flare up but it shouldn't be an explosion. Let the mushrooms cook until the brandy is almost evaporated. Then turn off the heat and add one tbsp of butter and mix it in; this technique is called "monte au beurre" or mount with butter. Place the mushroom reduction in a bowl and let cool uncovered. I want to add at this point that we could prep the Orange Supremes also, but keep them in some of the juice and in the fridge covered. We are ready to cook and plate.
Heat the oven up to 425 degrees. Oil, salt and pepper the fish and place on a sheet tray. Repeat this step with the potatoes. Now, heat a large sauté pan over low heat. Slice the Tomato into four large and thick slabs, salt and pepper them and set aside. Once the oven is preheated, put the fish and potatoes in the oven and set the timer for 10 minutes. Let's check our "mise en place", everything in its place: Sauté pan (heating), spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes, salt, pepper, fresh herbs (mixed), oil, Orange Supremes, balsamic reduction, plates - got everything where we want and need it? Good. Once the 10 minutes are up, take out the fish and potatoes and let rest. If you are using sea bass this is important because it holds a lot of water and resting allows the juices to redistribute. Add a tbsp of oil to the pan and sear off the tomatoes on both sides. Keep them firm in the middle, we just want to soften them and bring out some sweetness – This will only take a minute on both sides. Lay them on the plates toward the front like two wheels next to each other. Now, in the same pan add the mushrooms and sauté them so they get a little crust. Add the spinach turn off the heat, season with salt and pepper, and toss until you get a little coating from the mushrooms. We are just wilting the spinach. We want to keep some crunch and texture here. Place the spinach and mushroom salad behind the tomatoes, add the potatoes on one side of the spinach and put the fish right on top of the seared tomatoes, make sure to show off that tomato a little. Garnish with Orange Supremes and a drizzle of the balsamic reduction.
Great article Rob, I'm for starting your own place. At the moment I think you are getting great experience running things, building your management style, etc. That combined with your love of creating great dishes leads to a fantastic resturant.
ReplyDeleteAnyway just thought I'd toss in my 2 cents and let ya know someone is reading, even if it is your cousin ;).
-Andy